Tag: nature

Overgrown – Forgotten Things

Astro season is well and truly progressing. Most photographs now are going to be with the milkyway core lower to the west and horizontal across the sky. It’s still very early in the morning to get these photos, peak time being between 1am and 3am Queensland time.

Most locals know of this shack out Mt Walker way, and I’ve been photographing it for years. A big mention here, please respect the owners property and do not enter. There have been issues in the past with people trespassing. There used to be a large tree behind the shack, it’s gone now, changing the scene somewhat but I’ve found it works well for the shot I envisaged. I just love the overgrowth on this old shack, which was originally a Butchers shop many years ago.

Part of my planning for this photo was I wanted to get the core larger than it would normally appear using a wide angle lens. So I used my Panasonic 20mm F/1.7 prime lens for this shoot. It has an equivalent of a 40mm field of view on a full frame camera, quite zoomed in from my normal photos.

The trick here is I couldn’t get all of the scene in one photograph. So putting the camera in vertical orientation, I took a series of shots across the landscape and created a panorama. Final crop brought it back to my standard 4:3 view ratio. By zooming in, the core appears much larger in respect to the foreground. You also end up with a larger photograph to work with from the final stitched result which is always nice.

The other aspect I had to contend with was the moon was up, and it was bright being a 1/2 moon. I was worried it would put too much light into the sky and I wouldn’t be able to capture the core. The benefit is it lights up the landscape beautifully, no lightpainting required this night. The photographs were taken at ISO 3200, 10 seconds, f/1.7. Such a high ISO but with so much light around, noise was really kept to a minimum.

I’ve added this photograph to my Astro Nightscapes gallery and this will become part of my Forgotton things collection in the future.

A beautiful night sky at Mt Walker near Ipswich Queensland Australia with the beautiful core of the Milkyway soaring over this old overgrown shack that used to be a butchers shop. Captured by Landscape, Storm and Weather photographer Murray Fox
Olympus OMD Em5.2, Panasonic 20mm, ISO 3200, F/1.7, 10 seconds, Stitched Pano

Here is a list of the gear I use. These are affiliate links, by following them and making a purchase you help support my photography at no extra cost to yourself.

* Camera : Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mk II Body Only – Silver
* Canon FD to M43rd Adapter : K&F Concept Lens Mount Adapter for Canon FD Lens to Micro 4/3 Cameras
* My Goto Landscape Lens : Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 12-40mm f2.8 PRO Black Len
* My Favourite Tripod : ZOMEi Z818C Carbon Fiber Camera Tripod With Quick Release Plate and Ball Head (Blue)
* Best Budget Filters Ever : Zomei 10 in 1 Square Z-PRO Series Filter Kit
* Best Budget Portrait Lens Made! : Olympus M.ZUIKO Digital ED 45mm F1.8 (Black) Lens
* The Perfect Walkaround Lens : Panasonic 20mm F/1.7 Pancake Lens
* A great CPL for your 12-40mm : Manfrotto MFESSCPL-62 62 mm Essential Circular Polarizer Filter
* The Best Aftermarket Battery Kit : DSTE 2X BLN-1 Battery + DC133 Travel and Car Charger Adapter

All of my photographs are available for purchase as Fine Art Prints in A2 and A3 size, as well as ready to hang Canvas Prints. Just contact me for pricing.

Be sure to visit at least weekly to keep up to date with my latest blog posts and can I suggest subscribing to my email list to receive occasional Tips, Ideas, News of Prints and Offers.



You can also follow me on Facebook or Twitter where I’ll post links to each new blog post as it happens, also follow me on Instagram where I post up my photographs, and My Story will have lots of behind the scenes photos and videos.

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A stunning portrait of an Australian Pelican in the early morning sun, captured near Ipswich Queensland Australia by Landscape, Storm, and Weather photographer Murray Fox, branching out into wildlife photography and explaining how to use adapted Canon FD lenses on Micro Four Thirds Olympus OMD Em5.2 Cameras.

Bird Portraits with Micro Four Thirds & Adapted Lens

My favourite photographic competition is open again, the Ipswich Enviroplan. Run by my local council, this competition always gets a huge amount of amazing entries across the categories and I like to try and get a few entries in at least each one.

My fortay is landscapes, and I see it as a real challenge to photograph wildlife, especially birds. Micro four thirds cameras until recently have always struggled with this type of photography as they didn’t have the focus capabilities required especially for birds in flight. The latest top level cameras now have no issue at all with this, but I’m using slightly older tech. Regardless, when it comes to bird portraits (as I like to call them) focus is not as critical and it can be incredibly enjoyable getting out and about with just a long lens and camera, walking local parks, looking for subjects.

The issue for me has always been the cost of long lenses. The latest offerings by Olympus in the 40-150mm Pro and the amazing 300mm Pro are literally thousands of dollars, well out of my budget. But this doesn’t mean you have to go without. The photos in this post were all captured using a 20 year old 70-210mm F4 Canon FD lens, adapted to my Olympus OMD Em5.2 camera. The absolute beauty of Micro four thirds is because there is no mirror, and the smaller sensor size, you can adapt pretty much any lens out there and use it! This lens gives me the full frame equivalent of a 140-410mm lens, prefect for bird portraits.

When adapting lenses, keep in mind it’s best to get a fully manual lens (one that has adjustable aperture on the lens and is all manual focus). I believe you can adapt some autofocus lenses but the adapters can cost more than the lens. My Canon FD cost me a whopping $70 on ebay and the adapter was $27 On Amazon. Under $100 for a long telephoto zoom, than when used right works brilliantly? Yes please.

Take this first photo as an example of what you can capture with this lens. I’ll go through recommendations for settings further into this post. It was bright light, around 9am in the morning, and quite a high contrast scene. By exposing for the brightest feathers on the Pelican, I was able to make the background almost entirely black, really isolating the bird and to me, creating a wonderful portrait.

A stunning portrait of an Australian Pelican in the early morning sun, captured near Ipswich Queensland Australia by Landscape, Storm, and Weather photographer Murray Fox, branching out into wildlife photography and explaining how to use adapted Canon FD lenses on Micro Four Thirds Olympus OMD Em5.2 Cameras.
Olympus OMD Em5.2, Canon FD 70-210mm, F/8, ISO 200, 1/800 sec

The way I use this setup is to stop down the aperture on the lens 2 to 3 clicks, ending up around F/7.1 to F/8. This really helps minimise chromatic aberration these old lenses with their old coatings can get in high contrast scenes. You’ll see this as purple and green edges where bright and dark areas meet. Any aberration left is easily removed in post production.

I put the camera into full manual (M) mode. I will set the shutter speed depending on what focal length I’m at, and how much light there is, but as a general rule of thumb I try and have a shutter speed twice that of the focal length. For this shot I was at 210mm on the lens, which is the equivalent of 420mm on a full frame camera, hence I was at 1/800 of a second shutter. This helps eliminate any blurring from camera movement.

Yes the Olympus has brilliant 5 axis in camera stabilisation, and I’ll use it low light, but if I can get away not using it I will, I’ve just gotten sharper results, birds like to move unfortunately. The final adjustment is ISO. This is the setting I mainly use to adjust my exposure. If the bird is too dark, I’ll increase ISO, if it’s too bright, I’ll lower ISO. I set one of my dials to adjust ISO, making this super easy to do on the fly. If I’m at my max lowest ISO, I’ll then change the aperture to a higher F number like F/11, but to be honest, you rarely get that much light.

I will happily go to ISO 6400 to get a photo but generally max out around 3200. The main trick with Micro four thirds cameras is never under expose the shot. If you can adjust exposure so you are one tick off clipping the highlights, then you’ll most likely have a good photo and the noise will be very controllable, and actually add some detail.

This photograph I captured at ISO 2300, the histogram was as far right as it could go without touching the right edge, a perfect exposure. In post production I actually have to reduce the exposure to get everything back to looking good, and this really reduces the noise in the image. It’s the biggest trick with any camera and high ISO shots.

A beautiful Rainbow Lorikeet surrounded by colourful Grevillia photographed by Murray Fox, Landscape, Weather and Storm photographer at Colleges Crossing near Ipswich, Queensland, Australia
Olympus OMD Em5.2, Canon FD 70-210mm, F/8, ISO 2500, 1/640 sec

I should also mention here in bold, SHOOT IN RAW! This is really critical. Shooting in Raw captures so much more data than JPG does, allows you get really get colours correct, and is very important with regards to noise.

Other important settings I use is only shoot using the mechanical shutter. I’ve tested and tested and I can never get a photo as sharp using the electronic shutter as I can with the mechanical. I usually shoot in Sequential Low with the Diamond which stands for anti-shock being enabled. This gives me around 5 frames per second, and the birds generally are not moving that fast I can’t get a good series of shot from a burst or two. It also saves filling up the memory card so much and trying to sort through so many photos later back home!

For my view setup, I will enable highlight/shadow warning and the histogram in both live view and viewfinder. This allows you to very quickly judge if you are over or under exposed, and as mentioned before, you never want to be underexposed, which is different to letting some parts go black, but you want the bulk of the data as far right on that historgram as possible.

Now to probably the hardest thing to do with these old lenses, focus. It’s all manual, no autofocus here, you have to zoom, find the bird, fill the frame, focus, and shoot all in a very short space of time. Thankfully there are some great tools in Micro Four thirds that really help with this and the king is Focus Peaking. I have a button set to enable/disable focus peaking on my OMD. The reason for this is with the focus peaking enabled, you don’t get highlight/shadow warning or histogram in your viewfinder, so if the bird moves, or the light changes, you might now have an incorrect exposure as we are shooting all manual here.

So I will first check my exposure, then enable focus peaking and get the eye of the bird in focus (most important) and shoot a burst. If light changes, I’ll turn off the peaking and adjust. Rinse and repeat. With a button mapped this becomes second nature and extremely fast. You can also use zoom assist to really get in close and nail the focus, but usually only the the bird is quite content where it is and not going anywhere fast, this really takes time.

That’s exactly how I captured this last photograph. I really really love how this beautiful Blue-Faced Honeyeater is surrounded by those amazing orange Grevillea, a perfect frame for a beautiful subject. This also really shows off the depth of field you can obtain at 420mm f/8, quite impressive and lovely and smooth out of focus areas.

A beautiful Blue-faced Honeyeater surrounded by stunning Grevillea as photographed by Murray Fox, Landscape, Storm and Weather photographer at Colleges Crossing near Ipswich, Queensland Australia
Olympus OMD Em5.2, Canon FD 70-210mm, F/8, ISO 2300, 1/640 sec

So I’ll be out and about chasing more birds over the next few weeks, using all of the techniques I’ve discussed here. If you have the money, yes the latest offerings from Panasonic and Olympus are going to be a lot easier to use and give stunning results, or even some of the older gear like the Olympus 75-300mm will work very well. However, if you’re on a real tight budget, maybe even have an old lens lying around at home, adapt it and go!

Here is a list of the gear I use. These are affiliate links, by following them and making a purchase you help support my photography at no extra cost to yourself.

* Camera : Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mk II Body Only – Silver
* Canon FD to M43rd Adapter : K&F Concept Lens Mount Adapter for Canon FD Lens to Micro 4/3 Cameras
* My Goto Landscape Lens : Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 12-40mm f2.8 PRO Black Len
* My Favourite Tripod : ZOMEi Z818C Carbon Fiber Camera Tripod With Quick Release Plate and Ball Head (Blue)
* Best Budget Filters Ever : Zomei 10 in 1 Square Z-PRO Series Filter Kit
* Best Budget Portrait Lens Made! : Olympus M.ZUIKO Digital ED 45mm F1.8 (Black) Lens
* The Perfect Walkaround Lens : Panasonic 20mm F/1.7 Pancake Lens
* A great CPL for your 12-40mm : Manfrotto MFESSCPL-62 62 mm Essential Circular Polarizer Filter
* The Best Aftermarket Battery Kit : DSTE 2X BLN-1 Battery + DC133 Travel and Car Charger Adapter

All of my photographs are available for purchase as Fine Art Prints in A2 and A3 size, as well as ready to hang Canvas Prints. Just contact me for pricing.

Be sure to visit at least weekly to keep up to date with my latest blog posts and can I suggest subscribing to my email list to receive occasional Tips, Ideas, News of Prints and Offers.



You can also follow me on Facebook or Twitter where I’ll post links to each new blog post as it happens, also follow me on Instagram where I post up my photographs, and My Story will have lots of behind the scenes photos and videos.

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A beautiful young tree showing autumn colour surrounded by long winter dry grass in Ipswich Queensland Australia as captured by Landscape PHotographer Murray Fox using a Mamiya 645 Medium Format Film Camera , the Mamiya 45mm Lens and Kodak Ektar 100 film.

Fun with Film 17/06/18

I’ve finally gotten around to getting my first two rolls of colour film developed. Both of these are Kodak Ekatar 100 film. One roll I shot with my Lubitel 166u square format twin lens camera, the other roll I shot with my Mamiya 645 Medium format camera and a variety of lenses.

I used Fotofast in Brisbane for the development, very fast (2 hours) and well priced, best benefit is not too far from home either saving postage costs. Both rolls came out well developed and I think I only underexposed a couple of frames, both on the Lubitel which was before I got my spot meter. All the photos on the Mamiya using the spot meter came out perfect.

It’s certainly a huge learning curve. Not only do you have to get exposure right, but you then have to learn how to scan, how different films react to different light. I’m using an Epson v550 Photo scanner which does both 35mm and 120mm film well.

I’m still working my way through scanning the photos and putting the final touches on them but wanted to share with you what I have captured so far. None of these are earth shattering photos, they are about the learning process, trying different subjects in different light and learning all the steps with an aim towards knowing the whole process inside and out. Only then will I truly start to capture what I think will be very unique and stunning film photographs.

I actually love how this first photo came out. Using the Mamiya and the longest lens I have for it, a 150mm, shooting with the aperture wide open, the shallow depth of field is amazing with medium format. This is something I going to have to explore a lot more of. These lilies are not far from home in a little hidden pond, a nice discovery that I’ll be visiting again for sure.

Water lilies in the pond captured on Kodak Ektar 100 Film using a Mamiya 645 Medium format camera and a Mamiya 150mm lens by Landscape Photographer Murray Fox in Ipswich Queensland Australia
Mamiya 645, Ektar 100, 150mm Lens

This next photograph is my favourite so far from the Lubitel. It shoots in square format which really changes how you end up composing a photograph. I captured this at Governors Lookout near Spicers Gap in the scenic rim of South East Queensland Australia during the photowalk a little while ago. That early morning soft light, the slight imperfections of the camera softening the edges. I really like the feel of this, can’t wait to try it in some mist and fog. Pretty dang good for a $40 medium format camera from Russia!

Beautiful gum trees on a hill, one with the bark splitting from it as the early morning light bathes the bush near Spicers Gap in south east Queensland Australia by Landscape Photographer Murray Fox, captured on Film using a Lubitel 166 universal and Kodak Ektar 100 film.
Lubitel 166 Universal, Kodak Ektar 100.

Next is another Lubitel shot. The light was pretty harsh and I did underexpose this a bit. What it shows is if this film is underexposed, you still capture all the detail perfectly, but a blue cast that is not easy to get rid of can appear across the image. Especially in the shadows. Better to overexpose a touch and really get those wonderful Kodak Ektar colours.

Queens Park in Ipswich Queensland Australia in stunning autumn colour captured with a Lubitel 166 universal camera using Kodak Ektar 100 film by Landscape Photographer Murray Fox.
Lubitel 166u, Kodak Ektar 100

This next photo, shot on the Mamiya, shows what colour you can get when you get the exposure bang on. It also blew me away how narrow the depth of field is with the 150mm when used in close, I’m really going to have to watch that, but it will be fun to use it on the correct scene as well!

A beautiful vibrant colourful bird of paradise flower as captured by Landscape photogapher Murray Fox in Ipswich, Queensland, Australia
Mamiya 645, Mamiya 150mm, Kodak Ektar 100

Finally a photo of what I’m hoping to really use my Mamiya setup for, landscapes! I found this young tree showing some nice colour in a park near home. The golden hour light was falling across enhancing the gold even more. The lack of clouds wasn’t ideal but I do like the contrast of the blue on the gold.

A beautiful young tree showing autumn colour surrounded by long winter dry grass in Ipswich Queensland Australia as captured by Landscape PHotographer Murray Fox using a Mamiya 645 Medium Format Film Camera , the Mamiya 45mm Lens and Kodak Ektar 100 film.
Mamiya 645, Mamiya 45mm Lens, Kodak Ektar 100 Film

Let me know in the comments below which is your favourite photo from this weeks post, and if you shoot film, let me know what you are shooting gear and film wise, drop a link to your work, I always love to be inspired by others!

Visit again to keep up to date with my latest blog posts and can I suggest subscribing to my email list to receive occasional Tips, Ideas, News of Prints and Offers.



 

Be sure to visit regularly, follow me on Facebook or Twitter where I’ll post links to each new blog post as it happens, also follow me on Instagram where I post up my photographs, and My Story will have lots of behind the scenes photos and videos.

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An amazing landscape panorama photograph of the hut in Glen Rock state forrest, east Haldon, Lockyear Valley, Queensland, Australia as the sunsets, painting orange colour and light across the peak.

Went Exploring, found Gold!

This would have to be one of the best afternoons I’ve had in photography for quite a while. I didn’t really have any fixed plan. I knew of a spot with a cool looking hut that I thought might be okay, if the weather played ball. Unfortunately it looked like there was going to be lots of cloud towards the horizon at sunset, so I wasn’t feeling hopeful and notched this down to just an exploration day.

There are a few lines of mountains that run north/south as you approach the Great Dividing Range. Some of these have valleys between them with access. It was one such valley I headed for. On the way in, the peaks started appearing. This one caught my eye so I quickly pulled a u-turn and captured this shot. It’s nothing amazing, but the diffused light on the hill was really illuminating the brighter parts, contrasting against the darker sky.

A peak rises next to East Haldon valley, south of Gatton in the Lockyear Valley of Queensland Australia as the light plays across the face in the beautiful landscape photograph.
Olympus OMD Em5 Mark II, Panasonic 20mm @ f/5.6, ISO 200, 1/640 sec

Heading right up the the end of the Valley I found the hut I was looking for. It’s actually an information centre for the area (not manned) and there is a nice campground across the way, I definitely will be back here in winter astro season, the landscapes around here are fantastic. For this next photograph I thought I’d try a fun technique. I don’t have what is called an Ultra wide angle lens. The widest mine go is 12mm on Micro Four Thirds which is equivalent to 24mm on a full frame camera. Pretty wide, but it’s certainly not ultra wide. Ultra wide lenses make objects very close to them appear very big, and objects further away very small. This is used to great effect by a lot of landscape photographers. To achieve a similar effect, I used a Panasonic 20mm prime lens (equivalent to 40mm) and took a 3×3 grid of photographs starting point almost straight down to well up into the sky, with good overlap side to side and up and down. Make sure you have your camera in full manual exposure mode so nothing changes. I set the exposure with the camera aimed at the brightest part of the scene, and leave it fixed there.

Focusing is also important with this technique. I was very close to the front fence, and that peak is off in the distance. I also was using a very normal lens. It’s physically impossible to get everything sharp in one shot for the framing I had. So I simply used autofocus, set the focus point to centre, stopped down a bit. Each shot focused at the prime position and not only does stitching the photos together create one big, ultra wide angle looking photograph, it also has the effect of focus stacking the images as well for front to back sharpness.

Now, yes, this is a lot of work you may say, and what if something moves, then it won’t work. It took all of 30 seconds to capture the images, and it took 5 minutes in Photoshop to join them. The wind was blowing quite strongly and I can’t see any stitching errors. I also ended up with the equivalent of a 60+mp photograph which is awesome 🙂 I think I’ll be using this technique a lot more often until I can get my hands on an UWA lens.

The information centre hut at east haldon in the glen rock state forrest. Awesome hut with the mountain peak behind in this beautiful landscape photograph
9 photographs in a 3×3 grid stitched. ISO 200, f/8.0, 1/100 sec

Next was time to wait a bit. I was here to try and capture this hut at sunset with the peak behind. Unfortunately the trees were not letting me get the angle I was initially thinking of. I spent a good 40 minutes walking around with my phone, taking shots from various locations and I kept coming back to a wider view of the shack and the peak. So I settled on trying to create a 3:1 panorama photo. This will need around 6 shots with the camera in vertical position. I kept the Panasonic 20mm lens on, it has almost no distortion, and is so sharp. This lens is just awesome for panoramas on my Olympus, just keep an eye out for chromatic aberration in really high contrast areas.

So I setup the tripod, made sure it was 100% level, took a few test runs and then just waited…and waited…and waited….I was beginning to worry nothing really would happen. The sun had already gone behind the mountains behind me, clouds were streaming across, and the wind was picking up again. Right through golden hour I got nothing, the light was just flat. And then literally the moment of sunset, something west of me must have cleared and this amazing light hit the peak behind the shack, also bouncing off the clouds and lighting up the whole scene. I captured my 6 shots as quickly as I could while making sure everything was in sharp focus (let your tripod settle a few seconds after each camera movement). I got two runs at it and then incredibly the light was gone! I worked out looking at my photos it lasted a total of 2 minutes and 40 seconds. Wow…it really proved to me preparation is king.

An amazing landscape panorama photograph of the hut in Glen Rock state forrest, east Haldon, Lockyear Valley, Queensland, Australia as the sunsets, painting orange colour and light across the peak.
6 Vertical Photo Panorama, ISO 200, f/8.0, 1/30 sec

I hung around for another 10 or so minutes but it was becoming obvious that there wouldn’t be a second run of light. I packed up my gear and started to make the couple of hour drive back home. As I went past a local pecan farm, I spotted a water tower in amongst the tall trees. It was getting very dark, but I make it a habit, if something catches my eye, go back and look and take a photo, whether you like it or not. I changed to my Olympus 12-40mm pro lens, quickly setup the tripod and went for the vertical composition. I really just liked the height of everything and the contrast of the water tank to the pecan trees. A bit of fun in editing with the colours and this has to be one of my most favourite Instagram type of photographs I’ve captured. This will be going up on my photo wall for sure.

A great looking raised water tower stands between the rows of Pecan Trees near Gatton in the Lockyear valley, Queensland, Australia, Landscape Photography
ISO 200, f/8.0, 6 seconds

After capturing this photograph, I remembered a collection of structures further up the road I had passed on the way in. I was thinking if there was still enough light I might be able to capture an interesting photograph with them. Coming to the location I had to shoot fast, and work out a composition. This is what I finally settled upon after trying wider and closer. I like the balance between the 3 structures, the low low light gave a bit of an ethereal feeling to the scene, and the clouds still moving quite fast overhead blurred out quite nicely.

One thing I simply love about mirrorless cameras is having an EVF viewfinder. I managed to focus on the middle barn, in near darkness (exposures were out to 30 seconds) manually and could see 100% I had the focus nailed. The live view couldn’t even keep up, but boy, does that EVF with it’s auto gain and focus peaking really make it so easy in low light, absolutely love it. I cropped this to a 2:1 ratio to give a nice balance to the scene.

3 structures in the twilight at Haldon south of Gatton in the Lockyear Vally, Queensland, Australia making for a wonderfully peaceful landscape photograph.
ISO 200, f/9.0, 30 seconds

It pays to get out and visit new areas. It also doesn’t hurt when mother nature decides to play ball and throw some great light around. I’m going to be exploring more of the back valleys and roads, to find more of those little gem locations that mostly only locals know about.

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A beautiful big tree bathed in soft light at Flinders Plum near Ipswich Queensland Australia

Peaks and Creeks – Flinders Plum

Grey skies, drizzling rain, flat light, seemed like the perfect time to go for a hike at Flinders Plum up Sandy Creek. I’d been here once before on a workshop with the brilliant Nature photographer James Doyle. That was a great morning seeking out birds and other wildlife, however my plan this morning was to look for more landscape oriented photographs.

The drive in to this spot is almost an adventure in itself, a wonderful road that is dirt for the last section, winds its way alongside the creek, crossing it several times. I arrived at the end carpark around 6am, the sun was up but with so much cloud it didn’t matter, a slight drizzle of rain had set in, a light rain jacket took care of that and my Olympus OMD Em5 Mark II, and 12-40mm pro lens are weather sealed so no issues there either.

Flinders Plum, as the carpark area is called, is the launching point for several walks in the area, the longest and most extreme being the walk to the summit of Flinders Peak. Today I was going to follow the track up Sandy Creek and see what I could find.

Before heading off, I just had to take a portrait of this tree right next to the carpark, it’s a beautiful big tree and the early soft light made it just look wonderful.

A beautiful big tree bathed in soft light at Flinders Plum near Ipswich Queensland Australia
Olympus OMD Em5 Mark II, Olympus 12-40mm Pro lens. ISO 200, f/8, 1/13 sec.

Next I headed off up the track that crosses Sandy Creek a few times along the way. I was definitely the first person through this way this morning judging by the amount of spider webs I kept walking into. Pro Tip, hold out your tripod in front of you when the path narrows! There was plenty of wildlife around with Roos and Wallabys hopping off into the bush as I approached and the calls of various birds echoing through the air.

Walking along the Sandy Creek track at Flinders Plum near Ipswich Queensland Australia in the Goolman Range
ISO 200, f/8, 1/30 sec

The first creek crossing I came too looked promising for a photograph, I scouted around a bit and carefully picked my way through the rocks to find this composition. I really liked how the trees were closing in over the creek. Running water would have been awesome but I think the area needs a lot more rain before that happens, something to keep in mind for the future however. I must note, the use of a polarising filter was critical on this day for remove reflections on the rocks, and leaves from that huge bright white light in the sky. It really brought out the colours and cut the glare.

A beautiful view up Sandy Creek at Flinders Plum in the Goolman Range near Ipswich Queensland Australia landscape photograph
ISO 200, f/8, 2.5 sec

Futher up the track I came across the old cattle yards. I looked around this area quite a while for a composition but due to a large amount of overgrowth I just wasn’t having luck this day. I decided to move on and around 10 minutes later I took a small detour off the main track to come across this lovely view south of the mighty Flinders Peak, the highest peak in the Teviot range.

A view through the trees of Flinders Peak in the Goolman range south of Ipswich Queensland Australia, landscape photography
ISO 200, f/8, 1/30 sec

Heading back to the main track I saw this wonderful view of Mt Goolman, shaped like a pyramid looming through the trees. This area is dotted with Bunya Pines which contrast against the typical aussie bush landscapes.

Mt Goolman through the trees in the Teviot range along Sandy Creek from Flinders Plum south of Ipswich Queensland Australia
ISO 200, f/8, 1/25 sec

By this time the rain was starting to pick up just a little and the wind had started to blow a bit stronger. I made my way back along the track to the carpark. I took one final detour down to the creek again at the start of the Mount Blaine track, looking downstream to another great creek scene with trees leaning in over the wonderful rock strewn bed.

The rocky creek bed of Sandy Creek at Flinders Plum in the Teviot range south of Ipswich Queensland Australia, intimate landscape photography
ISO 200, f/8, 1/2 sec

Finally it was time to sit down and relax and have a well deserved coffee. The picnic area here has all the facilities you could ever need including bbq’s and toilets, and great covered tables. All up my wandering took me 3 hours, it was a great start to the day and I’ll certainly be back to explore more. If you are ever in the area, I highly suggest making a trip out here, don’t forget your camera!

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Beautiful star trail over Lake Moogerah in the Scenic Rim of Queensland Australia with great colour from the last of sunset and blue hour over the mountains.

Early evening star trails over Lake Moogerah

At a recent meet up with the great folks from Scenic Rim Photo Walks I hung around after sunset to capture this great photograph.

Beautiful star trail over Lake Moogerah in the Scenic Rim of Queensland Australia with great colour from the last of sunset and blue hour over the mountains.

To capture this photograph was actually quite simple thanks to the great technology in my Olympus OMD Em5 Mark II camera. I framed up the photograph in portrait orientation. I set the aperture to f/5.6 for good depth of field, and set the ISO at 400. I’ve found this to be the perfect ISO for my camera at night time where I want to keep detail/colour in the stars during trails.

Next I enabled the Live Composite function of my camera. This awesome feature will capture a photograph at your set exposure, and then update that exposure with only new light every time the shutter speed is reached. So for this one I set the shutter at 10 seconds. So every 10 seconds the camera updated the photo with only new light (in this case the stars), while keeping the rest of the exposure perfect. I ran this for 30 minutes and loved the final result.

Starting the composite when I did while there was still a touch of colour in the sky worked out great, it’s the first time I’ve tried that. The stars also retained some great colour as they trailed, and I even managed to capture a couple of meteorites as seen on this zoomed in view.


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